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Muhājir: A Culinary Journey Through History and Migration

· 5 min read

Chicago's restaurant scene is buzzing, thanks to the opening of Muhājir, a new venture led by prominent chef Zubair Mohajir. Known for his previous successes such as Lilac Tiger and Mariela, Mohajir aims to weave stories of migration into the dining experience, showcasing a unique culinary narrative rooted in historical spice routes.

Exploring Migration Through Cuisine

Muhājir translates to "migrant," a term that resonates deeply with Mohajir's personal history. Reflecting on the ramifications of the partition of India and Pakistan, Mohajir notes that his family name connects to migration, a theme that runs through the fabric of his restaurant. He expressed, “We’re all muhājirs. Our families came from somewhere.” His culinary background includes a deep dive into ancient recipes from Southern Spain and Portugal, highlighting the influences of pre-Crusade cultures which were themselves intertwined with the trading paths of Southeast Asia. At Muhājir, guests are invited to experience the journey that food undertakes along these historic routes.

The Role of Live Fire in Cooking

The decision to center the cooking around live fire speaks volumes about the experience that Mohajir wants to create. “Cooking on live fire taps into a primal way of preparing food,” he stated, recalling his childhood memories of home-cooked meals in India. For him, it was imperative to step away from traditional cooking methods and embrace the elemental nature of fire, emphasizing its role in storytelling.

A Dish That Tells a Story

One standout offering at Muhājir is a duck dish inspired by a recipe that’s nearly a millennium old. Mohajir passionately describes the process: starting with a whole duck, it is meticulously butchering and prepared using ancient techniques combined with modern flair. This includes a unique dry-aging method and a final finish over wood fire. The presentation on a Turkish platter is a feast for the eyes, featuring duck jus and crispy skin enhancements that capture the essence of cross-cultural culinary history.

The Connection Between Muhājir and Bobo

Mohajir isn’t just a standalone restaurant; it’s complemented by Bobo, a bar space that embraces the same immigrant narrative. Partner Jacob Dela Cruz’s background inspired the playful name, derived from a term in Tagalog. Walk-through designs connect the dining experience at Muhājir with the more casual vibe at Bobo, creating an organic flow between the two spaces.

Reflections on Running Muhājir

As the restaurant continues to establish itself, Mohajir reflects on the challenges that come with opening such a context-rich venue. He notes that, while experiences from previous restaurants haven’t made things easier, they’ve certainly allowed him to approach issues with more confidence and a structured mindset. “I’ve cultivated the ability to face problems head-on with the support of my team,” he states. The restaurant is built around the guests rather than outside investors, fostering a sense of community investment in its success.

A Dream Realized

Muhājir represents more than just new dishes for Mohajir; it symbolizes a personal dream realized. He describes his relationship with the restaurant as one of belonging, a place where he derives joy and purpose. "I plan to be old in this place," he shares, cementing his emotional connection to the venue he has built.

This restaurant not only highlights diverse culinary traditions but also serves as a tribute to the stories of migration that connect people through their shared love for food. With each meal served at Muhājir, the narrative of history, culture, and identity unfolds, appealing to those eager to explore what's on their plates.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

Source: Bettina Makalintal · www.eater.com