Chef Hasung Lee has emerged as a notable name in New York’s dining scene with the opening of his restaurant, Oyatte. Following his appearance on Netflix's Culinary Class Wars, which showcased his culinary skills and composure under pressure, Lee has transitioned into the spotlight in what many are calling one of the hotter restaurant openings in NYC.
While he gained recognition through the show, Lee had been planning Oyatte since 2020, envisioning a focus on the freshest vegetables and seasonal produce. His partnership with Brett Ellis, the proprietor of Crown Daisy Farm in Staatsburg, New York, has enabled him to feature an inventive eight-course tasting menu that reflects his extensive experience at culinary landmarks such as Gramercy Tavern and The French Laundry.
The Realities of Opening Day
Lee's plans for Oyatte haven’t come without challenges. The restaurant was delayed multiple times due to permit issues and construction setbacks, leading to a total of four postponed opening dates. Despite these hurdles, interest in the restaurant skyrocketed, resulting in a fully booked status from day one.
Initially aiming for a modest 30 covers a day, Lee faced a surprise surge in demand where they had to accommodate 55 covers across three seating turns. The transition was daunting, especially as they started with a much lower volume during their soft openings. Lee found himself grappling with the pressure of this increase, reflecting on how different the reality was compared to his plans.
Lessons Learned in the Kitchen
Since opening, Lee has been adapting his approach to both service and sourcing ingredients. His close relationship with Ellis has led to a dynamic kitchen operation where the menu changes weekly to prioritize the freshest vegetables available. Lee emphasized the focus on quality, explaining that Ellison’s cultivation practices yield vegetables with intense flavor due to their growth in natural soil conditions rather than in greenhouses.
"We change at least one to two dishes each week," Lee shared, indicating the evolving nature of his menu, which depends heavily on seasonal availability and the farm’s output. This strategy is exciting but also adds an element of stress, as fluctuations in production can lead to significant shifts in what can be offered.
Navigating the Netflix Effect
Lee’s participation in Culinary Class Wars led to a boost in attention for his restaurant, which has been positive for business. Interestingly, he noted that while some patrons recognize him from the show, his daily routine remains grounded. He is more focused on executing the vision for his restaurant than seeking fame.
Reflecting on his portrayal in the show, Lee mentioned he found the depiction of him as calm and confident to be accurate. He relished the experience as it allowed him to immerse himself in cooking without the distractions of restaurant management. However, working with unaccustomed team dynamics in challenges raised moments of frustration.
Creative Culinary Practices
Lee’s culinary innovation also includes unique methods for ingredient preservation. For instance, his use of black truffles, typically served raw, involves macerating them in soy sauce to enhance their umami profile and extend their usability beyond the traditional season. “I consider black truffle as an earthy, umami ingredient, and I wanted to find ways to use it creatively throughout the year,” he explained.
In addition to truffles, Lee has an extensive list of other ingredients fermenting in his pantry—from pickled vegetables to flavored vinegars. This inventive approach to flavor building not only showcases his culinary skills but reflects his commitment to sustainability and resourcefulness in the kitchen.
Looking Ahead
The journey of establishing Oyatte is a continuous learning process for Lee. He acknowledges daily challenges, from service nuances to physical plant operations. For instance, rain-induced leaks in the establishment have prompted him to communicate regularly with his landlord about maintenance, highlighting the day-to-day realities of running a restaurant.
Lee's ambitions extend beyond just providing great food; he envisions a more sustainable and connected approach to farm sourcing. His ongoing dialogues with Ellis are based on not just food orders, but also discussions about planting schedules and strategic growth for the upcoming seasons. With around 80% of his menu's ingredients coming directly from Crown Daisy Farm supplemented by local markets, Lee is creating a distinct identity for Oyatte, rooted in a commitment to quality and seasonal relevance.
As Oyatte continues to evolve, the intersection of Lee’s culinary philosophy and seasonal produce will likely keep patrons returning for new offerings, ensuring that each visit is a fresh exploration of flavors.